:REMOVAL OF THE OEM SHOCKS AND REPLACE WITH MY AFTER MARKET SHOCKS:

 

Disclaimer:

I take no responsibility for anyone mishandling or hurting himself or herself in the process of installation.

The hatch shocks are made by a 3rd party manufacture and I take no responsibility for misuse or improper installation or failure to correctly install.

That being said, installing these hatch shocks is very painless and as easy as I feel I best described below. 

If you are not mechanically able to complete the task of installation any local professional auto repair shop should be able to install these hatch shocks for you at an agreed upon fee.

Purchase of my hatch shocks deems buyer is aware of this disclaimer in full.

 I feel im forced to write this disclaimer to protect myself from any and all situations.

 

HOW TO INSTALL VIDEO

 

START

I RECOMMEND HAVING A 2ND PERSON TO HOLD THE HATCH WHILE REMOVING.

Do not remove with out the hatch being supported or threads will strip under hatch weight as you unthread/remove the ball stud.

IT IS BEST TO USE A SMALL ADJUSTABLE WRENCH FOR THE TOP BALL STUD MOUNT.


TAKE YOUR TIME SO YOU DON?T STRIP THE TOP MOUNT:


TOP MOUNT REMOVED:




I recommend RE-INSTALLING the top mount using a deep socket 12mm so you can get some torque on it. Obviously you can?t use the deep socket originally to remove it because the strut is permanently mounted on it, that?s why you have to use an adjustable wrench FIRST.

BOTTOM MOUNT REMOVED:
Simply with a 10mm socket or 10 mm wrench. Two each bolts per side. SEE NEXT TWO PICS:




CUTTING FREE THE STUDS FROM THE SHOCKS:
Okay, take a moment and really look at your OEM SHOCKS ? They are permanently mounted the top and bottom mounts!
The top mount is a ball stud only ? see that?
The bottom mount is a ball stud with a metal bracket with 2 each 10mm bolts ? see that?

HOW TO CUT FREE WITH A DREMEL VIDEO!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXmDBg3EP1k&feature=player_embedded




YOU CAN USE A CHOP SAW OR A DREMEL TOOL ? chisel and hammer or regular bench top grinder TO CUT FREE THE BALL STUD MOUNTS FROM THE OLD NISSAN LIFT SUPPORTS
(BOTH TOP AND BOTTOM MOUNT NEED TO BE CUT FREE). See my other options below as well! -- Pay it Forward Method!!

YOU HAVE TO TAKE YOUR TIME SO YOU DON?T CUT TO DEEP AND CUT INTO THE BALL??????A LITTLE NICK OR SO IS OKAY, BUT DON?T CUT SO DEEP THAT YOU RUIN OR DESTROY THE ORIGINAL BALL STUD. GOT IT.
 
PIC OF WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE WHEN YOU CUT FREE THE BAD ORIGINAL LIFT SUPPORT FROM THE BALL STUD MOUNT THAT YOU NEED TO REUSE.

TOP MOUNT FREE FROM OEM SHOCK:


BOTTOM MOUNT FREE FROM OEM SHOCK


REINSTALL BOTTOM BRACKET THIS WAY!! DOWNWARD!!!

I have had a few customers call me and flip this bracket and then the hatch doesnt close! - make sure the curve of the bottom bracket is installed downward.

IF YOU DON'T OWN ANY OF THESE TOOLS:
I have had customers stop at any local family owned exhaust/muffler shop, even a tire shop will own a chop saw or a bench grinder that will easily remove them. Most places like this will charge 5 bucks for a quick job like that.

The oem shocks cut like butter?they are not a hard casting at all!!!

ONE FRIEND OF MINE EVEN CHISEL AND HAMMER BROKE FREE THE BALL STUDS MOUNTS.

"Pay it Forward"

For those of my customers that feel this is something you can not do, nor have tools or near by local shops to accomplis the task of freeing your existing mounts from your blown worn out shocks - I offer a pay it forward method. Email me at Sales@350zhatchshocksandmore.com  and ensure i have a spare set of mounts ready.

:PROCESS/TERMS:

1. I will ship you my mounts already loose and ready to INSTALL- WITH TOOLS - a special curved wrench that aids in top bolt removal.

2. I ship all these parts in a REUSABLE 3 inch diameter cardboard tube.

3. You repackage your blown shocks after install with mounts and when I get them ill cut them free.

4. With your mounts I then - "PAY IT FORWARD" to the next Z enthusiest.

RULES - we need a quick turn around time once you get them. Sometimes people are waiting!!

ALTERNATIVE:  which is not recommended , because removing the studs/mounts is easier than you think!!!!!??????.

THE ALTERNATIVE IS TO GO TO YOUR LOCAL NISSAN DEALERSHIP AND BUY THE BRACKETS AND NEVER REMOVE THEM FROM THE OEM ONES. BUT YOU STILL NEED TO REMOVE THEM FROM THE CAR USING THE SMALL ADJUSTABLE WRENCH AND REMOVE THE BOTTOM MOUNTS.

I recommend www.courtesyparts.com - that is where I got the pic above??From their online part fish database?

FINISHED:

WHEN ITS ALL DONE?..NO MORE WEAK OEM LIFT SUPPORTS ? 40% STRONGER - LOOKS GREAT!!

 

For Reference - Here is the Factory Service Manual Specifications - Torque Specs:

Top Mount - ( 9-11 ft-lb )


Bottom Mount - ( 39 - 58 in-lb )

Disclaimer:

I take no responsibility for anyone mishandling or hurting themselves in the process of installation. The hatch shocks are made by a 3rd party manufacture and I take no responsibilty for misuse or inproper installtion or failure to correctly install. That being said, installing these hatch shocks is very painless and as easy as I feel i best described above. If you are not mechanicaly able to complete the task of installation any local professional auto repair shop should be able to install these hatch shocks for you at an agreed upon fee. Purchase of my hatch shocks deems buyer is aware of this disclaimer in full.

 I feel im forced to write this disclaimer to protect myself from any and all situations.